Sunday, November 18, 2018

Is Fashion a "disease of the mind"?

                                                                     

                                            Comments due by Nov. 25, 2018

Fashion revolves around the latest trends but is the industry behind the curve on the only trend that ultimately matters - the need to radically alter our patterns of consumption to ensure the survival of the planet.
The fashion industry produces 20 per cent of global wastewater and 10 per cent of global carbon emissions - more than all international flights and maritime shipping. Textile dyeing is the second largest polluter of water globally and it takes around 2,000 gallons of water to make a typical pair of jeans.
Every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned. If nothing changes, by 2050 the fashion industry will use up a quarter of the world’s carbon budget. Washing clothes also releases half a million tonnes of microfibres into the ocean every year.Then there is the human cost: textile workers are often paid derisory wages and forced to work long hours in appalling conditions. But with consumers increasingly demanding change, the fashion world is finally responding with A-listers, like Duchess Meghan Markle, leading the way with their clothing choices and designers looking to break the take-make-waste model.
“Most fashion retailers now are doing something about sustainability and have some initiatives focused on reducing fashion’s negative impact on the environment,” says Patsy Perry, senior lecturer in fashion marketing at the University of Manchester. For example, last year, Britain’s Stella McCartney teamed up with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation to launch a report on redesigning fashion’s future.“However, there is still a fundamental problem with the fast fashion business model where revenues are based on selling more products, and therefore retailers must constantly offer new collections. It would be unrealistic to expect consumers to stop shopping on a large scale, so going forward, I would expect to see more development and wider adoption of more sustainable production methods such as waterless dyeing, using waste as a raw material, and development of innovative solutions to the textile waste problem,” she says.
Pioneering solutions to address environmental challenges will be at the heart of the fourth UN Environment Assembly next March. The meeting’s motto is to think beyond prevailing patterns and live within sustainable limits—a message that will resonate with fashion designers and retailers seeking to reform their industry.At the March meeting, UN Environment will formally launch the UN Alliance on Sustainable Fashion to encourage the private sector, governments and non-governmental organizations to create an industry-wide push for action to reduce fashion’s negative social, economic and environmental impact and turn it into a driver for the implementation of the Sustainable Development Goals.
Across the United Nations, agencies are working to make fashion more sustainable, from the Food and Agricultural Organization protecting arable land, to the Ethical Fashion Initiative set up by the International Trade Centre to the work of UN Environment in fostering sustainable manufacturing practices.
And some entrepreneurs are already designing the fashion of the future:
·         Spain’s Ecoalf creates shoes from algae and recycled plastic as part of its Upcycling the Oceans collection. Founded by Javier Goyeneche in 2012, Ecoalf collects ocean plastics from 33 ports and turns the trash into shoes, clothing and bags.
·         In Amsterdam, GumDrop collects gum and turns it into a new kind of rubber, Gum-tec, which is then used to make shoes in collaboration with marketing group I Amsterdam and fashion company Explicit. GumDrop says around 3.3 million pounds of gum end up on Amsterdam’s paths every year, costing millions of dollars to clean. It takes around 2.2 pounds of gum to make four pairs of sneakers.
·         Outdoor gear retailer Patagonia, based in California, has been producing fleece jackets using polyester from recycled bottles since 1993, working with Polartec, a Massachusetts-based textile designer. Patagonia also encourages shoppers to buy only what they need, and mends and recycles older items.
·         Gothenburg-based Nudie Jeans uses organic cotton for its jeans and offers free repairs for life. Customers also get a discount if they hand in their old jeans.
·         Cambodia-based Tonlé uses surplus fabric from mass clothing manufacturers to create zero-waste fashion collections. It uses more than 97 per cent of the material it receives and turns the rest into paper.  
·         In the Netherlands, Wintervacht turns blankets and curtains into coats and jackets. Designers Yoni van Oorsouw and Manon van Hoeckel find their raw materials in secondhand shops and sorting facilities where donations are processed. San Francisco- and Bali-based Indosole turns discarded tyres in Indonesia into shoes, sandals and flip-flops, while Swiss firm Freitag upcycles tarpaulins, seat belts and bicycle inner tubes to make their bags and backpacks.
·         In New York, Queen of Raw connects designers, architects and textile firms with dead stock of sustainable fabrics from factories, brands and retailers. Queen of Raw says more than US$120 billion worth of unused fabric sits in warehouses, waiting to be burned or buried.
·         Novel Supply, based in Canada, makes clothes from natural and organic fabrics and is developing a take-back programme to find alternative ways to use garments at the end of their life. For founder Kaya Dorey, winner of UN Environment’s Young Champion of the Earth award in 2017, the aim is to create a zero-waste, closed-loop fashion model.
·         Retailer H&M has a successful garment collection scheme and in October, lifestyle brand and jeans manufacturer Guess said it was teaming up with i:Collect, which collects, sorts and recycles clothes and footwear worldwide, to launch a wardrobe recycling programme in the US. Customers who bring in five or more items of clothing or shoes, will receive discounts. Wearable items will be recycled as secondhand goods, while unwearable items will be turned into new products like cleaning cloths or made into fibres for products like insulation.
Some argue that recycling is itself energy intensive and does not address our throwaway culture—the number of times a garment is worn has declined by 36 per cent in 15 years. An alternative might be found in a viable rental market for clothes. Pioneers in this field include Dutch firm Mud Jeans, which leases organic jeans that can be kept, swapped or returned, Rent the RunwayGirl Meets Dress and YCloset in China.
“The rental model is clearly a winner for the higher end of the market where consumers may have no intention of wearing an occasion dress more than once… but at the lower end, it’s all too easy to go online and be able to buy outright any trend or item,” says Perry. “For rental to be a success at this market level, companies need to offer sufficient choice of brands and styles that would engage consumers and tempt them away from outright purchase, and the rental service needs to be smooth and faultless.”
Her best fashion advice? Less is always more.
“Keep your clothing in use for longer to reduce its environmental footprint, as well as reducing the amount of new stuff you need to buy and the consequent use of resources. This also reduces the impact of the disposal of perfectly good but unwanted clothes.”



13 comments:

  1. Is fashion a disease of the mind? Living in New York I've been well acquainted with and interested in the world of fashion. Just walking the streets of Soho you get a feel for what the world of fashion is all about. It is astonishing to see that 20 percent of the global wastewater is produced by the fashion industry. Reading about sustainability is interesting as I was just introduced to a brand "Reformation" that prides itself on sustainability.

    I had never heard of Ecoalf, what a nice concept. I would be interested in supporting them as I believe in their cause. Queen of Raw the New York brand brought to light the numbers behind a sort of epidemic. I have been aware of the fact that high end luxury brands burn their unused and un-bought pieces but I was never aware that it was in such an excessive amount as it is. I will do my part in the future to either sustain my closet or be conscious of who I am supporting. Sustainability in clothing is definitely a key way to make sure the planet is not being filled with unnecessary pollution.

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  2. Growing up I always was interested in the fashion field, wanting to become a designer. However, when I came to New York last year, I realized how devastating this industry truly is. It is probably the number one polluter that our generation creates day to day. It wasn't till last year when I met someone that created a sustainable brand that made clothing out of hemp that I realized that the industry may have a chance to turn around. The only question is how to shift this huge paradigm that effects more than just the environment. Unfortunetly this industry has caused third world countries more pain than we see in the US. It makes me happy to see companies move towards a different approach (ex. Gucci going furless), however where does that leave the countries that were already effected? My understanding is that the industry already created this huge mess where the mass production of fast fashion has occurred and made its mark especially on every street in NY where you can quickly buy a "I love NY" tee and/or even just plain white tees. How can we move to change this?
    The industry is definetly one that needs to act faster than others with the obsession becoming a major/ way of life, ex; those studying fashion design. Being able to see this industry move towards sustainability is exciting but also is it doable?
    Martha

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  3. The fashion industry has brought huge environmental pollution, speeding up the replacement of clothes, and accelerating the consumption of resources and the speed of pollution. Many individuals and businesses are making every effort to reduce the pressure on the environment from the fashion industry. I think it is very creative to recycle waste and re-form it into garments, promote savings, and give preferential treatment to old-for-new customers. The wisdom of mankind is always endless. I believe that people can create environmental pollution,but they can use human wisdom to control environmental pollution better. The power cannot be underestimated.Thus,Sustainable development is achievable.
    ma xue

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  4. This week’s blog is very interesting. Being passionate about sustainability, I have always discovered different industries and areas with their own, sometimes unique, environmental issues. The textile industry, including fast fashion, is one I have realized very recently, and also read up a lot on. The blog this week on fashion could not be a better timing.
    This is a huge problem, just the fact that by 2050 the fashion industry will use 25% of the global greenhouse gas emissions is troubling. Also, something that is a concern is the 2,000 gallons of water needed for making a pair of jeans. Actually, I read an article that claimed that making one cotton sweater takes 2,700 liters of water (713 gallons), which is enough water for one human being to drink for two and a half years.
    We did come a long way, going from burning clothes that are not sold (a complete waste of energy), to recycling it. Recycling is one step in the right direction, and i:Collect illustrates the fabric cycle from being made, to recycled, to reused. This is similar to any other consumption problem, for example plastics, we need to recycle all plastics to save the environment, for example the oceans. But at the same time, with consumption, we will always have a problem with the recycling. Annually, just New York City alone consumes 4 billion plastic bags. Where do these plastic bags go? Not many of them gets recycled.
    The same problem is for the fashion industry; we need to consume less as stated in the blog post. Recycling really is an energy-consuming process, and should maybe be used as a last-step-of-the-cycle-solution. Therefore, we need solutions for our excessive consumption, for example the clothe-renting companies which I believe is great. However, some people will never bother to rent clothes, or feel uncomfortable doing it. I think the companies selling clothes has a way too big of a gap of clothes produced and never sold, which are the clothes called “deadstock.” Clothing companies need to become more effective, and allocate production of clothes better with the demand, to make sure we do not produce excessive energy-consuming clothes.

    // Nils Erik Molin

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  5. As a student studying with a fashion marketing minor, I’ve learned a lot about the harmful effects fast fashion has on the environment. The effects of fast fashion on the environment are very significant, and yet it is still not a topic that is largely focused on in society. Fashion is seen as a disposable product, which is a very dangerous idea. Clothes and other consumer items are what cause pollution and stuffs our landfills- and it is something we have the ability to change. It is very refreshing to see new businesses and entrepreneurs working on ways to solve these problems and creating awareness on this worldwide issue. The first step is to inform others on this issue so we can all take steps to move forward. Personally, after learning about this topic, I do feel inclined to tell friends and family to think twice before we buy a cheap H&M tee shirt.

    -Almira Ardolic

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  6. I feel like the destruction caused by the fashion industry that is discussed in mainstream media has never centered around its lack of sustainability. Most of the commentary about fashion has been made about the inhumane use of animals and the exploitation of workers in third world countries. Even though these issues are obviously important too, it is disheartening to see the continuation of the trend that ignores the environmental impact of consumerism. To see statistics like, "it takes around 2,000 gallons of water to make a typical pair of jeans" is shocking and is something I never heard before. The effort made by companies and celebrities to emphasize sustainability provides hope that change is possible but I agree with those arguing that it will take more than that. It is dire that we shift our culture away from buying outfits for a one time use and replace it with the promotion longevity. The biggest hurdle is that fashion, like H&M and Forever 21, is so cheap. As long as the demand is there, those stores will meet it with supply. How do you lower demand without raising prices and making clothes less attainable for those with lower incomes? The multiple issues (sustainability, ethics, animal cruelty) caused by fashion makes it difficult to find a solution that will take all of them into consideration.

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  7. Before reading this article, I had no knowledge of how much waste the fashion industry created. It never clicked that with such a fast paced industry that there is more waste being created than usual. This is creating a slowly unstastinable planet and is endangering it even more. Surely, there will be designers who will turn a blind eye to this but other designers will create a change and will reduce the amount of waste that is created within a new collection. But then again, it's not only the designers who have to concern themselves with this problem but the consumers as well. The designers are creating more in the fashion industry because of the high demand the consumers are pushing forward and wanting. There is also so much to consider to making a more sustainable fashion industry and that includes the changes in prices of clothing because clothing material may be different than the previous designs. As a society people have to come together to create this change and come up with ideas of how to make this change. This also relates to global warming because everyone has to make that impact of change to create a sustainable planet.

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  8. Fashion in the most fashionable city in the world:
    Living in New York and working near “Fashion Avenue” (Seventh Avenue), I like other New York residents and visitors are surrounded by fashion. The fashion industry has a huge detrimental impact on the environment as the second largest polluting industry in the world — after the oil industry. In most countries popular for textile production, untreated toxic wastewater full of dyes and chemicals are dumped into the nation water supply. No only is this water harmful to the people living near and using the water, it also harms aquatic life. Another addition to the water pollution include fertilizers used in the production of garment materials, such as cotton.
    The environmental detriments of fashion can be categorized into: water pollution, water consumption, aquatic organisms in the water, waste accumulation, chemical use, greenhouse gas emissions, soil degradation, and rainforest destruction. While most fashion retailers have implemented a form of sustainability into their model, the main issue arises from the the fast past of the fashion business model. People, especially those in high fashion areas, have a high rate of retail purchases. For this reason, it perpetuates more designs to be produced and retailers must constantly offer new fashion selections. Since retail shopping is highly popular, whether in-store, or online, stopping shopping does not seem likely. For this reason, using more eco-friendly means of production of fashion would be the most accepted sustainability approach to reducing the environmental impacts of fashion. As stated by Patsy Perry, a senior lecturer in fashion marketing, a means to adopt “more sustainable production methods” includes “waterless dyeing, using waste products as raw materials, and development of innovative solutions to the textile water problem.” Some solutions consumers could make to reduce environmental damages caused by fashion include:
    - Purchasing closes mode in countries with stricter environmental regulations for factories (U.S., Canada, and the EU nations)
    - Purchasing clothes made from organic, natural, or semi-synthetic fibers that do not require chemicals in production: Lycell/Tencel
    - Purchasing clothing made from fibers with lower water consumption: linen, recycled fibers, etc.
    - Purchasing clothing less frequently with higher quality, mend clothing, or recycled old clothing
    - Purchasing from sustainable brands: Faircloth + Supply, Study NY, Coast, etc.
    - Look for clothing with certification label control chemical content
    - Purchasing clothing from countries powered by more renewable energy

    - Christine Lin

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  9. The fashion industry has been something of a lot of debate in regards to sustainability within the last decade because of the consumption habits of customers. There has been more of a fast fashion industry that has spawned creating pieces at a quicker rate but of far less quality. This issue has not only plagued the environment but the work force in the industry as well, as mentioned in the article. However, blaming all of the fashion world for the constant pollution is wrong and simply too harsh. Of course, there are brands that simple look at quick turn overs and push for designs that are constantly changing and that is because the culture that has been presented within the industry. If there was not so many people pushing the idea of buying cheaply made products because “they look the same” there would not be this massive industry causing so much damage. As for myself I shop brands that are actively working on sustainability and worker’s rights. Even brands like Adidas who have partnered with companies like Parlay to work on using recycled plastics in clothing and footwear, are ones making the push in the right direction. These brands are on the more costly side but I believe it is truly right to support creators and there effort to make sustainable, and genuine products.

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  10. This weeks article is right up my alley. Being that I am a Marketing major and work in the fashion industry, I found this article super interesting. I never thought about or even knew things like making a normal pair of jeans uses 2,000 gallons of water or that the fashion industry produces 20% of global wastewater and 10% of global carbon emissions. It is actually pretty disgusting when you think about It and we do It so effortlessly over and over again. I definitely believe the future is coming up with ways to become more frugal even in way of the clothes that you buy or how often we buy. Because the more we buy, the more they create -- demand and supply is huge in the fashion industry. As mentioned in the article, I would love to see renting become more of a thing. People can purchase less often by renting then returning. It also helps with less creation of new pieces if the same 50 pieces can be used over and over again rather than 1,000 people buying 1,000 pieces and only wearing It once. Renting is an awesome idea. There is also so much money in the fashion industry , they don't realize things like this or do not care to realize. I have never heard any of my bosses or peers in the industry ever talk about sustainability or being more economically conscious. I do enjoy the brands that are trying to do better for the economy; It helps us all in the long run. If everyone in the industry had this mind set, we would not be 20% of global wastewater and 10% of global carbon emissions. I enjoyed this post this week!

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  11. Personally as a person who used to shop frequently, this way one of the man reasons i stopped buying as much. I still to this day have items that i have purschased years ago and not worn. Our society has an obsession with fashion and has it has contibuted to our enviromental disaster. It's a good thing to see that brands are at least trying to keep the enviroment in mind. Some brands have recycle centers in the their stores and will reward those who participate in the program. Other brands has had lines that have involved recycled materials in their build or have been created enviromentally friendly. It is crucial for brands to continue to improve their carbon emissions for the sake of our planet

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  12. I have watched a documentary called “The True Cost.” It is about the unfair manufacturing conditions and the environmental impacts of the garment industry, which the film claims is the world’s second biggest world polluter. Cotton production is one of the most water intensive crops; responsible for 2.6 percent of global water use. Also, it is dependent on high volumes of pesticides and fertilizers in order to increase output per acre. The use of such chemicals contributes to the pollution of groundwater and air, as well as the reduction of soil fertility. Dyeing, printing and bleaching are one of the most energy and chemical intensive stages along the manufacturing line. China for instance, home to 53% f the world’s total textile, produces and then discharges about 40% of all dyeing chemicals worldwide, most of them untreated.

    According to the EPA, 13.1 million tons of textiles are trashed each year in the U.S., of which only 15 percent are donated or recycled. In addition, a large quantity of textiles go to waste each year due to production non-conformities. Most synthetic fibers, accounting for about half of all fiber usage, do not decompose and wool releases methane during landfill decomposition. More can be done to reduce textile production and waste and recycle old clothes.

    Most consumers assume that by donating their second-hand clothes to charities, that clothes are being recycled or given to less fortunate people. However, there are too many second-hand clothes being donated. Not only does the availability of such a great quantity of second-hand clothes create unemployment within the garment sector of developing countries, but it also negatively impacts economic growth and destroys the designs inspired by local cultures and traditions. Upcycling may be a better alternative to donating, because through upcycling the garment is turned into something new.

    -Jennifer Torsiello

    https://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/29/fashion/the-true-cost-a-different-kind-of-fashion-documentary.html

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  13. I think it is bold to classify the "we cannot walk around naked so we make clothes" industry the fashion industry and condemn it. If making clothes and washing clothes is an issue, perhaps we should look at ways to make them less hard on the world. That problem will not be resolved simply because someone opts out of a Gucci sneaker or Louis Vuitton handbag. In fact, the fashion industry- the major houses, that hold the most wealth can actually afford to pay their employees living wages and be conscious with their creation of clothing. Hence, the unattainable prices to the average person (which also feeds into the labels retaining their aspirational value to inspire consumers to work harder, to attain them, which helps the economy). I would argue the clothing that is worse for the environment is Zara, Old Navy, layman clothing lines. To which begs the question- what would an environmental economist prefer? That we quit wearing jeans because it takes 2,000 gallons of water to make it? That we stop washing our clothes (disgusting)? Fashion is not the issue here. People need clothing. We have to have clothes, we need to be warm, and protected from the elements && ya know- clothed. There should be more efforts made into making the fashion warehouses and all clothing producers have an incentive into using alternative sustainable means of producing clothing. And if there are not yet equally useful alternative options, then there should be money made available to incentivize research and innovation to create such tools. Also worth noting Stella McCartney, EDUN, Tome, and Eileen Fisher are all big luxury *fashion* houses already bringing sustainable clothing to the runway. The problem is not with fashion, but the textile industry. There needs to be more light drawn to the issue so people become aware, because nothing forces big brands hands like the masses.

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